Wednesday, 13 July 2016

Whoopigate: the storm around the issue of cultural appropriation and black women wearing blonde hair and / or weaves


As the US race debate crashes head first into the issue of black women wearing blonde hair and/or weaves, fuelled by Whoopi’s comments on a recent episode of The View (https://youtu.be/jbUFQZ1KuTsm) it’s time to throw in my two pennies’ worth.

If ‘cultural appropriation’ is when “a dominant group in society exploits the culture of a less-privileged group without understanding that group’s experience”, as explained by Sunny Hostin on the programme, then by definition black women wearing blonde hair and/or weaves is not an example of it; and, more importantly, black people in the US can never be guilty of it….unless they become the dominant group that is. Off the top of my head, West Africans who copy, make and sell the kilts that their Scottish ex-pats wear, to other West Africans, would be an example of black people being guilty of cultural appropriation.

Zainab Karim of Jet magazine (http://www.jetmag.com/talk-back-2/whoopi-goldberg-cultural-appropriation/#ixzz4DTCGpI2B)  responds to Whoopi’s comments by saying that what is going on is ‘assimilation’ instead. She explains that “assimilation is the process by which a person or a group’s culture comes to resemble that of the dominant group. Essentially, assimilation is the culprit behind the phenomenon of skin lightening and the belief that lighter is better, or the idea that anything that resembles whiteness holds more weight. It was the colonizers way of destroying indigenous culture”. But this is a misuse of the word assimilation. As any dictionary or thesaurus will tell you, assimilation means integration, adjustment, acclimatisation, accommodation, adaptation, absorption and incorporation; so, examples of this are learning and then speaking the dominant’s group language, learning how to cook and then cooking the dominant group’s cuisine, and so on.

OK, yes, by ‘any dictionary or thesaurus’ I mean those readily available, and they are typically based on the English language that was constructed by white English people, so I will gladly review the above if anyone has a different definition from another type of thesaurus or dictionary.

What Karim is describing is the belief that anything that resembles that dominant group is of more value or importance. This belief is typically unconscious and has been brought about by enforced conditioning like slavery, plus covert racism and discrimination like institutionalised prejudice and exclusion. It is typically called ‘having a complex’ but that is a terrible expression because it blames the victim, and we need to call to something else like ‘unfair conditioning behaviour’.

Black women wearing blonde hair and/or weaves is not cultural appropriation or assimilation. It is not unfair conditioning behaviour either EXCEPT when the blonde hair and/or weaves are TOTALLY AT ODDS WITH THEIR FEATURES. There are a myriad of reasons why a black woman would wear blonde hair, straight hair, a weave or wig (convenience, fashion, protective styling, etc.) - see my old article on ‘Black women and wigs and weaves’ (http://www.simiweave.com/#!Black-women-and-wigs-and-weaves/ytkor/576186ba0cf26813fb953c17).


#whoopi #jetmagazine #sunnyhostin #culturalappropriation

Tuesday, 1 March 2016

Wearing a weave qualifies as keeping your hair natural – the figures are in to back this!


It is official: as we continue to opt for natural hair styles in our masses, wigs, weaves and extensions are very much part of the mix.  Mintel’s recent US report revealed precisely what we’ve been harping on about for ages: that you can wear weaves AND keep your hair natural, because weaves should be considered as protective styling AND are available in natural hair textures and styles!  See our ‘How wearing a new type of weave qualifies as keeping your hair natural’ article from 28 October 2014 http://www.simiweave.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-min=2014-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2015-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=8

In January 2016 Mintel’s report* revealed that the sales of relaxers dropped 18.6 per cent from 2013 to 2015.  We were not surprised to read that the research showed that as both the market and the consumer shift toward natural hair however, the weave, extension and wig segment continues to grow with 44 per cent of black women wearing a weave, wig or extensions in the previous 12 months. 

The Mintel research revealed that 63 per cent of black women spent an annual average of $239 on wigs, weaves, extensions or styling tools further suggesting weaves, wigs and extensions are here to stay. 81 per cent of black women prefer an effective, no-fuss beauty/grooming routine, and 84 per cent prefer hairstyles that are simple and easy to do themselves. Cue the SimiWeave™….the 60-second weave that you clip on and off at home yourself…. www.SimiWeave.com  

’Natural hair movement transforms US Black hair care market’ article in Premium Beauty News 4 January 2016. http://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/natural-hair-movement-transforms,9082

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Shout out to the wig and weave brigade – please get behind your industry!

If you are a black girl or woman who:-
  • loves and uses hair extensions, has any ideas for new hair extension and hair care products, or is really creative when it comes to hair styling;
  • hates the idea and sight of weaves, wigs, lace fronts, etc., etc.;
  • is really into keeping the hair natural; and / or,
  • has a graveyard of useless or unsuitable hair care products, hair extensions, wigs, shampoos, conditioners, etc., typically in a shoe box under the bed;
then please consider getting into the black (or ‘ethnic’) hair industry!  ‘FOR US, BY US’ is desperately needed if we want to ensure that the products available are actually what we want and need; and, errrrrr, actually work! 

Basically, if we continue to be absent in the senior, decision-making, product and brand ownership positions behind the scenes, then we will continue to have no say in what is made, marketed and sold to us.  Even if we are the ones buying the stuff!  Which we do, in our millions……apparently black women spend four times as much on their hair than their white counterparts, and the black hair extensions industry is worth billions, comparable to the travel industry!  

But we complain about the products even more than we buy them!  We wish the wet products contain fewer chemicals, cause less damage and are more suitable for the structure of our hair.  We wish the hair was less shiny, less tar-like, not so full, and so on.  This is precisely why I invented the SimiWeave™, the patented original U part wig in 2003!  For decades I had been screaming out for hair that matched mine, for example texturised finishes, in realistic volumes and lengths!

Do not think that because we are prominent at the point of delivery and application of the products, (for instance, in the salons) black women are prominently represented at the source and point of production, where all the crucial decisions are made!  When I joined the industry back in 2003, out of the hundreds of people I spoke to and liaised with across the globe, only two were also black women.  Thankfully, it is getting better, but we still have an incredibly long way to go.


So now that you are all excited, ready to quit your day job and join the industry, where do you sign up?  Alas, if only it was that easy!  Regardless of which aspect of black hair you are interested in and what you’d like to do; what your area of expertise is and what you’d like to change, you’ll have to (i) research your intended area thoroughly because there is no central institute you can go to for careers advise, networking or recruitment; and (ii) be prepared to become an entrepreneur / run your own business / set up something yourself in order to ensure that you are a decision maker.  Do feel free to contact me to discuss your options (Simi at SimiWeave dot com), and I’ll provide you with as much insight as I can, as well as point you to others who have made the journey.